
The Everest Expedition from North Col brings us from Kathmandu in Nepal across the Nepal – Tibetan border into Tibet and finally to the Chinese Base camp.
Everest expedition from the Tibet side has become more popular among the mountaineers to make their dream come true to stand on the summit of Everest. Among the several reasons, low cost of royalty and other basic mountaineering services as well as the safest route to the summit are the key factors to attract more Everest climbers from North Col than from the South Col.
Technically, it is more challenging than the South side but does not have the ice fall danger. One of appealing aspects of Everest North Ridge route is that it offers the view of Everest virtually the whole route from the base camp.
Expedition initially starts from driving to Base Camp (BC) at 5,200m and from there it is 22 km to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400m with yak support. From ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier and then to snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m where Camp I is established on snow. This is a comfortable camp location, with great views across the North Face and East Rongbuk Glacier. However, it is not expansive. Climbing snow slopes, Camp II will usually be pitched at 7400m at the head of the snow ramp that stretches up from the Col and the camp could be windy. The route from Camp II to Camp III consists of a series of rock and shingle steps and easy terrain. Camp III usually will be at 7900m on rocky shelves. The route from Camp II to Camp III is quite windy. From Camp III the route traverses across a series of rock steps and snow slopes, then again on mixed rock and snow to Camp IV at 8,400m on rocky ground, but sometimes on ledges cut into snow, depending on snowfall in the preceding season. The summit day starts from here. The route consists of mixed rock and snow steps some of them are quite steep to the NE ridge and then finally to the summit via the Three Steps.